L-Ascorbic Acid

Product Description

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid in Skincare Formulation

Core Ingredient & Function:

• INCI: 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

• Primary Function: A stable, oil-soluble Vitamin C derivative that functions as a potent antioxidant and skin-brightening agent. It inhibits tyrosinase, boosts collagen synthesis, and protects against environmental damage.

Typical Formulation Guidelines:

1. Recommended Concentration:

   • Efficacy Range: 0.5% to 3%.

   • Common Sweet Spot: 2% is widely used for optimal balance of efficacy and skin tolerance.

2. Compatible Formulation Bases:

   • Oil-Phase Ingredient: Due to its lipid solubility, it is typically dissolved in the oil phase of an emulsion (e.g., creams, lotions) or in anhydrous serums (containing oils, esters, silicones).

   • Solubility: It is readily soluble in a wide range of oils, esters (e.g., C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate), and silicones.

   • pH Compatibility: It is effective across a broad pH range (pH 3 - 7), allowing for great flexibility in formulation without the instability issues of pure ascorbic acid.

3. Synergistic Ingredients (Boosting Efficacy):

   • Vitamin E (Tocopherol): Classic antioxidant synergy ("recycling" each other).

   • Ferulic Acid: Further stabilizes and enhances antioxidant photoprotection.

   • Other Brighteners: Such as Niacinamide or Alpha-Arbutin, for multi-pathway brightening.

   • Sunscreen Filters (in daytime products): Provides complementary prevention against UV-induced pigmentation.

4. Key Formulation Advantages:

   • High Stability: Remains clear and colorless in formulations, resistant to oxidation and heat.

   • Skin-Friendly: Less acidic and irritating than pure L-ascorbic acid, suitable for more skin types.

   • Simple to Formulate: Does not require highly acidic aqueous environments, simplifying emulsion development.

In summary, its primary "formula" is its incorporation into the oil phase of a product at 1-3%, paired with stabilizers and synergistic actives to create effective, elegant, and stable Vitamin C skincare.